Evening colours on the walls of the reef at Winjana
The Gibb River Road will stay in our hearts & minds forever, as well as our socks, clothes & sheets!
We have made it safely to the “other side” and are now happily camped at Broome at Cable Beach. Jenny spent the day scrubbing, soaking and washing the dirt out of everything, with little effect. Our red dirt adventure took us 12 days to complete, with the only damage being a larger crack in the windscreen then when we began and some obvious wear on the TrakShak shocks!
Our first stop on the GR Rd was Home Valley Station where the girls enjoyed the company of lots of children, the horses and the lovely swimming pool. `This section of the road was easily the worst corrugations we have experienced, bone-jarring, constant and loud. The turnoff from the Kalumburu road to Mitchell was better, having been recently graded. It took us up and over the plateau, with its vast forest of Livistonia palm trees - not at all what you expect to see on a plateau in the outback! It was stunning, with miles upon miles of tall palms and rocky laterite soils. We camped in the National Park for a few nights and did the 6km return walk to the Mitchell Falls, via Merton Falls and some amazing Aboriginal rock art. This is Wandjina country, which are spirit people, whose faces can be seen painted around the area by the Wanumbal people and their ancestors. There were also older Bradshaw (or Gwion) paintings, which are stick figures, with intricate depictions of traditional clothing and accessories. The Bradshaws are incredibly detailed and are artistically superb. One of the art galleries was under Little Merton Falls. We stood looking out from the rocky overhang, with the curtain of water splashing into the creek and the shady pool. You could easily imagine living here, with its shelter, plentiful water supply, and cool respite from the heat of the Kimberley. Thankfully we were able to swim along the way to the falls, as it was very hot. There is a thriving business in helicopter rides to the falls, which meant that as we sat, looking at the view in our sweat stained cloths and walking boots, after our 3 hour walk, the wealthier tourists arrived via helicopter, in their resort wear, looking beautifully coiffed. On our way back, we stayed at King Edward River, which is at the junction of the Kalumburu and Mitchell Plateau roads. This was a lovely spot on a boulder-edged river, where again, we were able to swim and wash off the dirt. Back to the Gibb River Road and we headed for Mount Barnett Station and the Manning Gorge. The gorge is situated on the Aboriginal community-owned station, and is accessed via either swimming across the river or rowing the small dingy. Water proof boxes are supplied, to carry your gear. We boated across with our lunch and morning tea and set off on the 6km return walk to the small gorge. Russ and the girls enjoyed the thrill of jumping from the rocky outcrops into the cold water below. Several families with boys were also present and it soon became a competition between the fathers and the kids to jump from higher & higher rocks. Russell’s last jump left him with sore bum cheeks for days! From Manning we headed for Bell Gorge in the King Leopold Ranges. The ranges are reminiscent of the Flinders, rising out of the otherwise, flat landscape. Next it was Windjana Gorge, which is hidden within the walls of the Devonian Reef, a wall of ancient limestone barrier reef that continues for over 30km. Windjana was magical. We counted over 12 fresh water crocs lazing on the banks as we went for a short walk. Further south along the ancient reef we were able to wade through Tunnel Creek, a 750m tunnel cave that the creek has eroded away as it winds through the limestone. Torches are essential, and we sent Russ first into the water to test the Plimsoll line. At one point it was up to his armpits, before he realised there was a shallower way. We all came out rather wet, but enjoyed the adventure in the dark. (For those who know Newnes in NSW, it’s a bit like the old rail tunnel there, without the glow worms, deeper water and all naturale).
So here we are in beautiful Broome, with its white sandy beaches, clear aqua blue water, 30+ degree days, unbelievably huge tides and stunning sunsets. We have availed ourselves of the sights and attractions. We went to the Sun Picture theatre, an old semi-outdoor cinema, to watch Red Dog. This Australian film was shot just down the coast at Dampier. As you sat there under the stars, large and small aircraft fly so close overhead to land at the nearby airport, and bats fly across, forming shadows on the picture screen. Quite surreal. We had a Chinese meal at one of the original Chinese restaurants, in China Town of course. We have been to Cable Beach and are having our Sunset Camel Ride this evening. Tomorrow we head north, up to Middle Lagoon and then on to Cape Leveque, for a few days of relaxation before we start heading south, for the journey home. 5 months have now passed, and we have so much to see with only 3 months left. This vast country, with all its hidden beauty. As you come around the next bend you behold sights you could only dream of, and we will need to revisit so much to truly appreciate what we have only seen from a distance.
Oh, we are planning a reality TV series when we get home, called “So You Think You Can Be a Grey Nomad?” It involves aspirational-soon-to-be-grey couples competing to see who can pack-up their caravan/camper the quickest, with extra points if it’s completed before sunrise (and even further bonus points if you make enough noise to wake the dead). Then Round 2 is who can unpack and set up their rig in a new site and be seated, with a beer/wine in hand, and be ready to tut tut*. The judges will be master grey nomads themselves. What do you think? (Alternative show titles - “Gran vs Wild”, “Master Nomad”, “Australian Idle”, “Big Mother”. The list could be endless. Please send us in your further suggestions.)
(Footnotes: a tut tut is not another form of motorised public transport as found in Bangkok. Rather it is the sound that the short-haired matronly forms of the N. greyus urbansus make when in the vicinity of sugared-up juveniles of the species who appear to be having more fun than the matrons themselves. It is not known if this is an inter-generational power/relationship issue, or perhaps an instinctive aversion response to joy in others. It could even be caused when the crumbs from their last Monte Carlo get stuck mid-swallow due to inadequate Bushell’s tea intake. A tut tut is often followed by a short, barked command such as “Stop that now children – it’s against the rules!” which is invariably uttered out of earshot of the juvenile’s parents.
Now gentle reader, you may wonder why we give the Nomad genus so much stick, especially when for some of us (ie Russ) that stage of life ain’t that far away. Well, in truth, I reckon it’s ages away, and anyway it’s fun. And there’s so bloody many of them…….) |
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